Changing Faces of Batik
I first met Serbian artist Mikro Kosmos (Miroslav Dukic) in Borneo earlier this year. He played a didgeridoo which he...
Travel
Balikpapan at a Glance
When I was growing up in suburban Surrey all those years ago, I knew little of the East beyond the...
Madura – Java’s Different Neighbour
The Javanese may tell you that the island of Madura – only 30 minutes away by ferry from Surabaya –...
Java’s First Photographer: Kassian Cephas (1845-1912)
The first rather rambling title for this article ran nearly three lines as it tried to convey that Kassian Cephas...
A Weekend Trip to Gunung Salak
Just two hours away from Jakarta, Gunung Salak is a large volcanic range in Halimun National Park (the largest tract...
A Pleasant Day Trip to Loveland
For years I was so strongly advised against riding the trains around Jakarta, and down to Bogor, that I avoided them:...
Bunaken: Two Sides of an Underwater Paradise
The Sulawesi city of Manado is known for many things: its spicy (and sometimes wacky) food, its cosmopolitan and beautiful...
The History of Coffee in Indonesia
Imagine a world without coffee! Even if you are not a coffee drinker, imagine the shopping centres and high streets...
Surabaya: Beyond Expectations
Look in a travel guide and the description of Surabaya won’t exactly allure you. For many years Lonely Planet described...
Embracing the Spirit of Ramadhan
The Muslim fasting month of Ramadhan is now in full swing. For recently arrived non-Muslim expatriates in Indonesia, it can...
Krakatau Sojourn
The mention of Krakatau, located in the Sunda Strait between Java and Sumatra, arouses a variety of gut feelings to...
Staying Safe on Your Travels
This is the time of year when many of us are travelling on leave and staying in hotels. I have...
A Culinary Pilgrimage to Gresik, East Java
It was still midday, but the beautiful scent of stir-fried garlic and galangal paste had already made me hungry. My...
Lutfi the Law Clerk: Finding Peace at Ramadhan
Sahur, the pre-dawn meal Muslims take before the first call to prayer during Ramadhan is tricky. Most Indonesians wake...
Lempad, a Timeless Balinese Master
Thirty six years after his death at the age of 116, the first complete presentation of the works of I...
South Solok: a Place with One Thousand Rumah Gadang
South Solok, located along mountain ranges of Sumatra, has a cool climate. While taking a trip from Padang city to...
The Salvador Dali Quest
After living in Southeast Asia back and forth for over twenty years, I have come to realize that most of...
Sailing the Spice Islands
The great arc of the Indonesian archipelago starts north of the island of Sumatra and curves south and east until...
Isen Mulang – A Cultural Extravaganza
A very special event occurs in Central Borneo on May the 18th each year. Thousands of Dayaks converge on the...
Mount Bromo: Where Heaven and Hell Meet
Mount Bromo (Gunung Bromo), an active volcano two hours’ drive east of Surabaya, East Java, is by far the most...
The July 9 Election: a Toss-up
One month before the July 9 presidential election day, a poll held by Kompas showed that about 40% of voters...