What makes Indonesian food special?
Indonesia’s rich diversity of ethnic groups has created a unique culinary heritage deeply rooted in values, beliefs, and societal norms.
These traditions go beyond recipes to define identities—tumpeng symbolises gratitude, while rendang reflects endurance. More than cultural pride, these practices offer pathways to healthier and more sustainable eating. Yet, modernisation has drastically altered food consumption patterns. According to the Ministry of Health’s Indonesian Health Survey 2023, only 3% of the population consumes adequate vegetables and fruits, while 47.5% consume sugar-sweetened beverages daily. Urbanisation and time constraints have contributed to a rise in eating outside the home, particularly among younger Indonesians (aged 26–45), who favour prepared meals due to busy schedules and the proliferation of food delivery apps. Generational divides are also evident, with younger Indonesians opting for Western-style breakfasts like bread and cereal, while older generations stick to traditional meals such as nasi uduk or bubur ayam. Despite these changes, communal dining remains a vital part of Indonesian food culture, reflecting the enduring social importance of food in fostering connections.
Simplistic Abundance: Reconnecting Indonesian Food Culture to Its Roots
Indonesian food culture is built on connection—linking people to their communities, traditions, and environment. This connection is beautifully exemplified by “simplistic abundance,” which celebrates the use of natural, locally sourced ingredients prepared simply yet meaningfully. This approach honours nature’s bounty, supports sustainable living, and promotes healthy eating. However, urbanisation and the growing appeal of ultra-processed foods are increasingly undermining these values, risking a disconnection from traditional ways of life. To preserve these ideals, families, schools, and public institutions must work together to embed them into Indonesia’s modern identity. Community-led food initiatives, school curricula that promote local dishes, and campaigns celebrating traditional foodways can help revitalise these practices and reconnect people to their roots.
The ‘Us’ in Indonesian Food Culture: What Rice Reveals About Fraternity
Rice, as a cornerstone of Indonesian cuisine, epitomises this cultural connection. A meal without rice is often seen as incomplete, symbolising fullness and fulfilment. The SEAMEO RECFON study highlights this cultural significance, with older generations consistently associating rice with a “real meal,” as reflected in the saying, “Kalau saya belum makan nasi, saya belum makan” (“If I haven’t had rice, I haven’t eaten”). By contrast, younger, health-conscious urbanites are increasingly open to alternatives like bread or potatoes. Historically, the Dutch colonial rijsttafel tradition further entrenched rice as the centrepiece of meals, blending local culinary practices with colonial influences. Today, according to the GAIN Micronutrient Gap Analysis, Indonesia’s rice consumption averages 78.2 kg per person annually, with regional variations from 56.2 kg in Papua to 98.7 kg in West Sulawesi. While rice remains a staple and a cultural symbol, these perspectives reveal the evolving relationship between tradition, nutrition, and modern dietary practices.
Building on rice’s cultural significance, Indonesian cuisine culture also promotes fraternity—a sense of unity and togetherness. Rice often takes centre stage at family dinners, local celebrations, and communal feasts, symbolising harmony and connection. Traditions like nasi tumpeng at celebrations or nasi liwet shared on banana leaves foster gratitude, collaboration, and equality while strengthening social bonds. However, modern convenience-driven habits, such as eating alone or relying on pre-packaged meals, threaten these communal traditions. Nonetheless, events like Eid feasts and arisan gatherings continue to celebrate the unifying power of food, with rice anchoring these meaningful exchanges and bridging traditional and modern dietary practices.
Food Culture: A Policy and Practice Framework
As we reflect on the evolving landscape of Indonesian food culture, it is clear that a deeper integration of local wisdom and cultural values is essential for the success of nutrition and sustainability initiatives. The Food Culture Alliance views food culture as more than just eating habits—it encompasses how people think about, feel about, and value their food. This includes societal beliefs, values, norms, and identity, which shape the labels, symbols, and rituals that define what food means to us. By leveraging these cultural elements, we can strengthen connections between people, their food, and the environment.
Policies and programmes must go beyond abstract references to “local wisdom” and instead embed concrete cultural elements into actionable strategies. Families play a pivotal role in preserving and transmitting traditions, while schools and public institutions can highlight the nutritional and cultural value of local foods. Protecting Indonesia’s culinary heritage while promoting healthier and more sustainable diets requires aligning these efforts with the beliefs and values that shape the nation.
At its core, the success of any initiative hinges on cultural resonance. Healthy and sustainable diets must be culturally acceptable too—rooted in tradition, reflective of identity, and adaptable to modern realities. Only then can we truly achieve lasting change that honours the diversity and richness of Indonesia’s food culture.
This article was written by Agnes Mallipu, Country Director of GAIN Indonesia and a member of the Food Culture Alliance. For inquiries or further information, feel free to reach out via email at amallipu@gainhealth.org – gainhealth.org