A good weekend brunch at a luxury resort ought often offers a mix of pleasure, relaxation, sensorial delight and space. All of those were part of the experience I enjoyed recently at St. Regis Bali.
The sprawling oceanfront resort has multiple restaurants. I declined the offered buggy ride and instead strolled through the pleasant grounds to the Kayuputi Restaurant where the St. Regis Bali Brunch is offered on Saturdays from 11 am to 3 pm. The vibe here is one of calmness: high ceilings, lots of space and white décor with local artefacts sprinkled throughout give the atmosphere of an upscale beach club. Lots of large windows offer views out to the pristine nearby stretch of Nusa Dua beach and the ocean beyond.
There are covered tables outside, perfect for a romantic tryst or to eat within earshot of the ocean, but I opted for the cooler indoor climes. A bar sits in one corner of the restaurant but the centrepiece is the open kitchen, where staff toiled diligently but unobtrusively. Indeed, often the only reminder of its presence was the constant glow of the wood-fired oven and the occasional plume of flame from one of the grills.
The brunch starts with a choice of aperitifs. The brunch classic of Bloody Mary was created in the New York City St. Regis. I chose The Fashioned, a blend of banana-infused whisky, lemon juice, almonds and chocolate.
An assorted basket of freshly baked bread and pastries sits atop the crisp white tablecloth at the large table. Up first is an amuse-bouche. It contains leek, potato espuma and lobster ragout. In a small dish, it packs a powerful punch of flavours. This sets the tone well for the coming meal. Although not specifically a tasting menu, the brunch consists of diminutive dishes where the emphasis is on strong taste and careful presentation.
That is perfectly illustrated by the next plate, itself a strikingly shaped piece of porcelain, on which sit four different smoked fish terrines ranging from kingfish pastrami to cured smoked yellowfin tuna. As all those busy chefs in the open-plan kitchen illustrate, doing things in-house is a consistent theme here. From the preserves to the pickles and the pasta, the word homemade pops up frequently.
I ask my attentive, helpful waiter whether there is anything on the menu he particularly recommends. He looks at me smilingly, “Everything on the menu is good”. That does not make my selection any easier, but it sets the tone for a meal that indeed turned out to be delicious from start to end.
A fish terrine hints at the strong seafood theme running through the menu, as befits the restaurant’s location within a stone’s throw of the beach. There is also a decent representation of local touches. An Asian-flavoured crustacean bisque makes the point, but the entrees even more so: there are six choices and all are seafood. Except for the salmon, they have all been landed in Bali. I enjoyed the tuna and salmon sashimi, like all of the dishes exquisitely presented and rich in flavour. There is a lot here for the eye (or lens) as well as the mouth: each dish is presented in an appealing, thoughtful way.
While the sea is a key inspiration, the land also makes a showing. A tableside trolley offers roast smoked Wagyu rump beef. A trio of foie gras options provide a classic European touch, brought up to date in one dish with butternut velvet and vanilla milk foam.
There is also a wider range of options on the à la carte section of the menu, which features a variety of pasta dishes as well as both meat and seafood options. I sampled the butternut gnocchi: the smallest gnocchi I have ever had although with a big flavour. I also enjoyed Bali lobster, served with mushroom gratin.
The four desserts all seemed appealing, but I opted for the popular creamy hazelnut gianduja, served with blackcurrant coulis and oat milk ice cream. It was so rich and satisfying that I had only limited appetite left when the trolley was pushed to my table with a range of cheeses.
At the table beside me sat a couple indulging their young child, occasionally attracting my attention. But for the most part, I was largely unaware of the other diners in the room, a testament to the airy spaciousness of the venue, the distracting views outside and also the culinary enchantment of the food.
The service was attentive throughout yet the brunch had an unrushed feel from beginning to end. Slowly the restaurant cleared, the staff still busy in the kitchen, and the quiet airiness of the room induced no rush to leave. But leave I had to – and there are worse ways to do that than stepping out and walking along the quiet beach, with the waves crashing.
The brunch package (Rp1.1 million nett per person) includes pre-brunch aperitifs from 11 am to 12 pm followed by an à la carte pass around from 12 to 3 pm. The beverage package (Rp1,450,000 nett per person) includes sparkling wine, a selection of wines, cocktails and mocktails. Meanwhile, the premium package (Rp2,250,000 nett per person) includes Champagne and a selection of wines.
St. Regis Bali Brunch at Kayuputi Restaurant
- Address: Kawasan Nusa Dua, Bali 80363
- Website: https://www.kayuputibali.com/restaurant
- Tel: +62 361 3006786
- Email: [email protected]
- Instagram: @stregisbali