The editor of Indonesia Expat recently had the chance to enjoy a meal at Phoenix Gastrobar by Holywings in Pantai Indah Kapuk, North Jakarta. This is his review of the venue.
Take it from me, as someone who currently lives in Bogor City, West Java: oftentimes, one needs a really good reason to drive north to Pantai Indah Kapuk.
It is not to say that Pantai Indah Kapuk is far from exciting, though. As a matter of fact, out of all the spots in the Greater Jakarta Area, Pantai Indah Kapuk, in my humble opinion, is among the very few places in which it would be very nice to spend one’s entire weekend. The coast, especially in the morning and before sundown, feels like Bali away from Bali. The Pantjoran Chinatown is a haven of some of the finest and most delicious Chinese food that the province has to offer. Taking a morning jog at San Antonio Promenade should be on everyone’s bucket list come the next long holiday. Still and all, at least for a homebody such as myself, it requires more than a nice vibe and a tasty plate of kwetiau to leave my lovely couch in Bogor, get in the car, and hit the road for approximately 90 minutes.
But then, one Thursday, I had a chance to enjoy a meal at one of the venues at the scene: Phoenix Gastrobar by Holywings. After that visit, miraculously, my view of Pantai Indah Kapuk transformed dramatically. I no longer see this coastal township as a refreshing destination strictly for the long weekends. After all, as Phoenix Gastrobar has recently taught me, time and distance are meaningless in the face of ambrosial food and nectar-of-the-gods cocktails.
A Food Oasis Under the Coastal Sunshine
Superficial, but true: sometimes, the look of a certain dining establishment can tell you exactly what your belly can expect. The interior area of Phoenix Gastrobar, as if reflecting the food and the drinks being served, is luscious, striking, and worth emphasising.
Wood-based structure and natural lighting complement each other beautifully, creating an interior atmosphere that is charming yet unassuming. The stained-glass windows add a quirky touch to the venue, not to mention the lantern-like luminaria and classic buffet lamps in various corners of the dining area. The grand, white-marble fountain, glowing with yellow luminescence, refreshes the senses after an eternally sunny day outside these walls. Despite the venue’s spacious expanse, the staff and servers are never too difficult to locate. And for anyone looking to dine and work, many tables are also equipped with accessible power sockets for chargers.
On that Thursday, Jamie Cullum’s tune “What A Difference A Day Made” greeted me as I stepped inside and took in the whole elements and fixtures at Phoenix Gastrobar. An ironically appropriate song for the moment of bliss that I was about to experience.
Eat Up, Drink Up
My meal for that particular Thursday afternoon consisted of traditional courses: an appetiser, a main course, a dessert, and one of Phoenix Gastrobar’s signature cocktails. Safe to say that Phoenix Gastrobar is a dining establishment best enjoyed as a full, well-rounded epicurean experience. A venue too charming simply for light afternoon bites and a glass of iced tea. And fortunately, the staff was more than gracious enough to guide the first-time diner such as myself regarding the food and refreshments most suitable to my palate as well as dietary requirements.
Without too long a wait time, my appetiser graced my table: Chilli Crab Buns. These charcoal bao buns were filled with lump crab, glazed with Singapore-style chilli sauce, and topped with ikura. This dish was a masterclass of flavour harmony. The tanginess of the chilli sauce augmented the richness of lump crab. Above all, Chilli Crab Buns served exactly what an appetiser was supposed to be: setting the tone, making the diner hungry for more, and getting them even more excited for the next course.
Short Rib Pappardelle followed suit. This pasta dish consisted of slow-cooked short rib ragu with bone marrow, salsa verde, gremolata, and crunchy mollica—a variety of elements that I, personally, have never tasted on a single plate before. The pasta was thick, hearty, and filling—very much ideal for certain diners who might be in the mood for something gratifying for the tummy, but not necessarily in the form of rice or potatoes. The beef was well-seasoned and appropriately savoury. The bone marrow, adorned with salsa verde, was very juicy and scrumptious, so much so that I was this close to literally grabbing the bone with my bare hands to paw and lick every inch of it.
For dessert, I chose a dish that was a bit more classic: Matilda’s Chocolate Cake, which was Phoenix Gastrobar’s signature dark chocolate cake complemented with sea salt miso caramel sauce. For this particular dessert, diners could choose either a single portion or a sharing portion, the latter of which could cater to two or three people. The chocolate cake, to my delightful surprise, had a creamy texture and was paired with tiny vanilla ice cream, with both elements practically lodged in a mouthwatering pool of milky yet syrupy caramel. The cake was also best enjoyed while warm, which created a somewhat yin-and-yang taste when relished with the ice cream as well.
Before I wrapped up my lunch at Phoenix Gastrobar, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to have a glass of cocktail to wash the meal down and relax my muscles before going ahead with today’s activities. For the cocktail, I was in the mood for something daring yet original, which led me to one of Phoenix Gastrobar’s Asian fusion cocktails called Som Tam. With vodka as its liquor foundation, this glass of aperitif also incorporated bean sprouts, mango, chilli liqueur, papaya, cucumber, spicy black pepper tincture, and chilli powder glazed on the lip of the glass. Som Tam, as I took a sip, was refreshing with just enough sourness. Furthermore, the cocktail’s spicy element gave me just the right amount of jolt to the brain, as the day was still young and I could use some alertness to resume today’s agenda.
By the time I left the Phoenix Gastrobar, my head couldn’t help but immediately readjust my plans for the next several days. I would love to spend more time in Pantai Indah Kapuk, especially after knowing the existence of this epicurean gem. For an out-of-towner such as myself, it certainly takes a lot of motivation to leave my comfortable couch and spend my weekends or off days in the northern vicinity of Jakarta. That being said, Pantai Indah Kapuk’s Phoenix Gastrobar has undeniably superb meals with cocktails to match. What can be more incredibly motivating than that?
All images, except as noted, are courtesy of Felix Martua. Phoenix Gastrobar by Holywings in Pantai Indah Kapuk also delivers live entertainment, music and DJ sets from Thursday to Sunday, starting at 8 PM.
- Golf Island, Rukan Pantai Indah Kapuk St No.01, Kamal Muara, Penjaringan, North Jakarta City, Jakarta
- Phone: +62 811 1922 3168
- Instagram: phoenixbar.id
- Email: info@hwgroup.id
- Website: www.holywings.com/brands/phoenix