It is a long way from Genova to Seminyak, and longer still from the disciplined kitchens of Michelin-starred Europe to the sun-bleached, spritz-fuelled energy of Bali’s dining scene.
Yet for Lorenzo De Petris, the distance has always felt like a natural progression rather than a departure.
Born in Liguria and raised in Piemonte, he trained at the Stresa Culinary School on the shores of Lake Maggiore, graduating in 2013 before completing his internships in some of England and Italy’s most celebrated restaurants; an apprenticeship that instilled in him a work ethic he still credits today. That same year, he relocated to Sydney, where he would remain for the better part of a decade, working his way through the city’s fine dining circuit until he secured Australian permanent residency. It was there, in 2020, that he began sketching out the concept for Mosto alongside Isabella Rowell, CEO of the Mexicola Group, eventually moving to Bali at the end of 2021 to open the restaurant himself.
In the years since, De Petris has grown into a far broader role than the one that first brought him to the island. He now serves as Executive Chef of Da Maria and Luigi’s Hot Pizza, as well as Chef Patron of Mosto: three restaurants under the Mexicola Group, each with its own identity and clientele. He moves fluidly between kitchens, balancing the discipline of his classical training with the looser, more instinctive style that Bali has drawn out of him.
Indonesia Expat spoke to Chef Lorenzo about that evolution: the philosophy that shaped him, the state of Bali’s dining landscape, and what keeps Da Maria, ten years on, one of the island’s most enduring tables.
You trained in Michelin-starred kitchens before leading restaurants with very different personalities. How has your definition of great dining evolved?
My fine dining era was at the very beginning of my career in Europe, in a very different hospitality landscape from what the industry and the world are today. It was a very important time for me as a cook, and it definitely made me realise that cooking was my path. It also shaped me with a very strong work ethic.
Over the years, though, I have definitely drifted away from the classical concept of fine dining, mostly from a consumer’s perspective. I think food can still be extremely educational and well-researched while remaining honest and humble in its appearance. Mosto very much reflects what I believe dining should be today.
Since moving to Bali, how have you seen the island’s dining scene change, and what excites you most about where it’s heading?
Since I moved here, and especially since Bali reopened to international tourism after COVID in March 2022, the island has definitely changed a lot, and sadly not entirely in a good way.
The hospitality market in Bali is without a doubt saturated, and I don’t think it’s sustainable. But I’m still positive because I believe we’re reaching a point where more people will understand this. I hope that, as a community, we can all work towards a better and more sustainable future for this magnificent island.
You oversee Da Maria, Luigi’s Hot Pizza, and Mosto. How do you keep each concept distinct while staying true to your own philosophy?
Before moving to Bali, I was doing consultancy work in Sydney while also working as a private chef through a platform called ‘At Your Table.’ When I met Isabella Rowell, CEO of the Mexicola Group, we started discussing and brainstorming Mosto. She also mentioned the possibility of stepping in as Executive Chef for Da Maria and Luigi’s, and I was intrigued straight away.
I enjoy breaking up the routine of working in a kitchen. Hospitality, for me, is also about understanding different brands and concepts, helping them grow while respecting what makes each one unique.
Da Maria has become one of Bali’s most recognisable dinner destinations. How do you approach creating an evening experience that keeps people coming back?
Da Maria is without a doubt a milestone in Italian-Australian dining in Bali. After ten years, it’s still unique and not something that can easily be replicated, both because of its product and its DNA as a vibe-dining institution.
Making sure we stay at the top is about the connection between everyone involved, from the chefs to the front-of-house team. It also comes down to having a deep knowledge of the brand and understanding the Italian dining landscape in Bali today.
When you’re creating a new dish, what usually comes first: the ingredient, the technique, or the story behind it?
I would say there isn’t always a pattern when I create a dish. Sometimes an idea can come after trying one of Denny Bakiev or Luca Marcolin’s drinks. They might not be happy with the flavour profile as a cocktail, but with me, a brilliant dish can suddenly come out of it.
Then, of course, there’s the awareness of ingredient quality and, most importantly, sustainability. That’s probably the biggest challenge across our whole portfolio, but especially at Da Maria because we work with such a high volume of produce every day.
Da Maria is entering a new chapter while staying true to its Italian roots. Can you tell us more about that evolution?
The evolution of Da Maria’s menu has been very organic. It almost wasn’t even a decision. It has simply been a natural consequence of how the dining landscape has evolved in Bali and around the world.
As chefs, and as people, we’re just growing older and wiser, and the menu has evolved with us.
What’s next for you in the coming years?
I feel it’s always easy to talk about the future instead of focusing on the present.
Before I start thinking too far ahead, I really want to see our restaurants continue to flourish and grow. Then, maybe one day, I wouldn’t mind expanding with a new project in Bangkok, or perhaps something in Japan, probably somewhere more rural.