Assistant editor Razi Faruqi Pasha recounts his first-ever visit to one of the most charming islands in the archipelago: Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara. This is his story.
I never expected to even consider visiting Sumba in East Nusa Tenggara, especially since I have never been to Bali, Lombok, or even Labuan Bajo. Funny enough, what turned out to be the first part of Eastern Indonesia that I ended up visiting for the first time was even further away from Bali, Lombok, or even Labuan Bajo.
Sumba offered a kind of raw beauty and authenticity that I had never experienced before. Little did I know that this remote island would leave such a lasting impression on me. Big thanks to ARTOTEL Group for having me on this unforgettable trip.
I flew from Jakarta to Sumba on Tuesday, the 25th of November, 2025, at 11 AM Western Indonesian Time. Unfortunately, there’s no direct flight yet, so I had to transit at Lombok International Airport before continuing my journey to Sumba. Flight transit is exhausting, isn’t it? I didn’t mind, though, considering that the island’s airport is quite small, and — as of now — can only operate low-cost airlines like Wings Air. Personally, I hope that someday there will be a direct flight from many regions to Sumba. That would be really helpful in supporting tourism on this island.
I went on this Sumba trip with a group of fellow travellers. Six hours on the aeroplane was my longest flight duration that I’ve ever experienced in my life (so far). I finally arrived at Umbu Mehang Kunda Airport, Sumba, at 5.30 PM Central Indonesian Time. Afterwards, I went to the hotel by car, though it took me only 10 minutes from the airport to arrive. I stayed for three nights at Myze Hotel Waingapu (Myze is pronounced “may-zee”), a newly 4-star hotel and resort in Waingapu, which is the capital of the East Sumba Regency.
I stayed in a studio suite, an ideal size for a lone traveller like me. The ambience was not only luxurious but also wonderfully cosy. As there was no mandated itinerary to follow for the day, I decided to hang around the resort. Within its vast grounds, Myze Hotel Waingapu offers a premier staycation experience courtesy of its private villas, 24-hour restaurant, public pool, cigar room, gym, and spa. The resort also provides private car transport for exploring the island at your own pace.
The next day, while the morning was still covered in the dark and people hadn’t begun their day yet, I had to wake up at 4 AM to kick off the day’s itinerary. My first destination of the day: Tanarara, which is a hilly region in East Sumba that is entirely covered with green hills and gently ascending roads — popularly known for its beauty under the morning sun. That’s why I went there so early in the morning — to catch the sunrise view. This region is also home to the “Sexy Road”. Why is it known as such? Because it is one of the most beautiful roads in Indonesia, thanks to its winding route that is flanked by hills on both sides. Along with the clear dawn sky, refreshing air, and all those hills surrounding it, Tanarara is truly magical!
While the group of fellow travellers and I were taking some pictures, suddenly, several local elementary and middle school students passed us by. They were on their way to school on foot, walking for kilometres! Turns out, in many rural parts of Sumba, walking such distances remains a daily reality for local schoolchildren. Regardless, those schoolchildren who passed us by still smiled brightly at us when we said hi. Despite such gruelling circumstances, I was nonetheless happy to see those kids still striving for education.
Sumba is a paradise of natural landscapes, with an abundance of hills and savannah covering the island. That said, I didn’t just stop there. My journey on this island continued to the next destination: Tanggedu Waterfall, which is located in Kanatang, Waingapu. To reach this destination, I went by car for approximately one and a half hours from the city centre, and had to pass through roads with ups and downs. Once I arrived at the front gate, I still needed to ride on a motorcycle taxi and walk down 240 steep stairs to finally see the waterfall. Tanggedu waterfall has been well-known for its loud splash of water, rocky mounds, and green hillsides, offering a picturesque view and a refreshing ambience — even under the sun’s heat. With fresh coconut water in mind, I had such a great time at this waterfall.
Visiting all the nature destinations in Sumba may take forever, but I assure you that it won’t be enough. I took a rest from nature for a while and stepped into one of the most popular cultural villages in Waingapu, namely Kampung Raja Prailiu. I arrived at the village in the afternoon and was welcomed by a local lady named Mama Renol. She brought up all the cheers and made my fatigue disappear. The group of fellow travellers and I had a long conversation with her, mostly about her work as a traditional crafter of Sumba hand-woven clothes called Tenun Ikat Sumba, native Sumbanese customs, the local marriage traditions, and a few stories about Sumbanese people.
After cultural exploration in the village, my next destination was Walakiri Beach, which is approximately 30 minutes away from Waingapu. The beach has recently enjoyed popularity among tourists due to its charming sunset view, particularly in the mangrove forest next to the shore. Unfortunately, that day, the weather didn’t seem to cooperate. The sky looked cloudy, and the water level was at high tide, making it dangerous to swim. As a result, I didn’t spend a long time here, leaving the beach while feeling a bit disappointed. I decided, however, to look on the bright side. Maybe this cloudy weather was a sign that this shouldn’t be my first and only visit to Sumba, and that I should come back to this island someday so that I can finally witness that iconic sunset scenery.
To wrap up the journey, I headed to Rumah Makan Yuk Keep Smile at Sumba Harbour for dinner. The area was lively, with street merchants lining the roadside, many of whom were selling fresh fish to passers-by. At the restaurant, I enjoyed a simple yet satisfying seafood meal while watching the harbour gradually light up as evening approached. After spending about an hour there, I made my way back to the hotel to rest — and prepare for my return to Jakarta.
It was time for me to say farewell to Sumba. Nevertheless, the breathtaking hills of Tanarara, the marvellous Tanggedu Waterfall, the friendly people of Kampung Raja Prailiu, and the delectable seafood at Sumba Harbour had already carved a special place in my memory. Even with those incredible landmarks, Sumba is merely one small piece of Indonesia’s widespread splendours. There are still so many beautiful things to explore in this archipelago.