Some dishes can be so immensely delicious, they outlive multiple generations!
It is no longer a secret that Jakarta is a haven for curious gourmands and epicureans from around the globe. Having said that, sometimes to discover the best plate of meals in town, you must browse around more thoroughly and spot the sources — meaning, the OG restaurants that put Jakarta on the global culinary map in the first place. Some of these restaurants have also become the eyewitnesses of history as they have lived and breathed amid the changing times, sociopolitical torrents, and even the age of colonialism.
Here Indonesia Expat curated ten of the oldest, most enduring restaurants in Jakarta for you — especially the expatriates and foreign tourists in the city — to try and see for yourself. The restaurants might seem humble, but sometimes, there is no greater historical heritage than a beloved recipe that has been passed down for, quite literally, multiple generations. Selamat makan!
The below list is presented in alphabetical order.
Bakmi Gang Kelinci
Established in 1957, Bakmi Gang Kelinci has gone through various transformations over the decades. First started in Gang Kelinci, Pasar Baru, Central Jakarta, Bakmi Gang Kelinci is now under the auspices of AK Management, and its existence has been recognised with a number of branches spread throughout Jakarta. Nonetheless, Bakmi Gang Kelinci’s first and original shop still stands the test of time; some of its iconic dishes are fried-and-flushed dumplings, mushroom chicken noodles, and I Fu Mie (Indonesian crispy deep-fried thick noodles). Fun fact: Bakmi Gang Kelinci was founded by a housewife referred to as Madam Fatmawati. In creating the noodle shop’s signature noodle recipe, Madam Fatmawati incorporated soy sauce, white chicken, boiled mustard greens, soy sauce mushrooms, and vegetable oil. She deliberately did not use any condiments that contained pork.
Address: Jl. Kelinci Raya No.1 3, RT.1/RW.4, Pasar Baru, Sawah Besar, Central Jakarta.
Gado-gado Bon Bin
Being one of the most iconic eateries in Jakarta since it catered to the city’s epicureans back in 1960, Gado-gado Bon Bin is located near the area that is now known to the contemporary Jakartans as Taman Ismail Marzuki, with the eatery standing tall only a few steps away. The eatery’s namesake was derived from the word “bonbin” which means “zoo” due to how the area used to be Kebun Binatang Jakarta (Jakarta Zoo). True to its name, gado-gado (an Indonesian salad consisting of raw or steamed vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, boiled potato, fried tofu, tempeh, sliced rice cakes, and peanut sauce as the salad’s dressing) has remained the eatery’s signature and most popular dish. Billed as “gado-gado siram“, this dish is famous due to how the seasoning is ‘splashed’ onto the salad and exudes a slightly sour flavour as it also contains palm vinegar.
Address: Jl. Cikini IV No.5, Cikini, Menteng, Central Jakarta.
Jun Njan
A haven for seafood lovers in Jakarta, Jun Njan has stood the test of time since its opening back in 1956. Jun Njan’s signature boiled fire prawns, in particular, are one of the highlights of the menu. The prawns are cooked in a so-called “special” seafood sauce that has been a speciality of this restaurant for many years; the “special” seafood sauce itself is made from a mixture of garlic and chilli sauce. Jun Njan is also notable for some of its more unusual foods, namely fried pigeons and fried frogs cooked in butter. As of now, Jun Njan encompasses several branch outlets located in some of the hallmark areas in Jakarta, such as the Mall Of Indonesia (MOI) Kelapa Gading and Grand Indonesia Shopping Mall. Jun Njan’s first and original outlet, however, still stands tall in the city’s Pecenongan district, Central Jakarta.
Address: Jl. Batu Ceper No.69, Pecenongan, Jakarta Pusat.
Kikugawa
This restaurant named Kikugawa has been commonly regarded as the first Japanese restaurant that opened its doors to the public in Indonesia since the end of the Japanese occupation of the country. Founded in 1969, the name of the restaurant was derived from the founder of the restaurant, Terutake Kikuchi, who was also a former Japanese soldier who chose to live in Indonesia after the latter declared its independence. Nestled in the Cikini subdistrict, Central Jakarta, Kikugawa’s simplistic appearance channels an old-timey Japanese inn, typically adorned by the sound of a shamisen (a three-stringed traditional Japanese musical instrument), antique porcelain dolls, and decorative fans. Some of the restaurant’s beloved dishes are salmon gyoza, chicken cutlet curry rice, and Kikugawa’s signature curry rice.
Address: Jl. Cikini IV No.20, RT.15/RW.5, Cikini, Menteng, Central Jakarta.
Kopi Es Tak Kie
With its uber-popular fresh iced coffee concoction, Kopi Es Tak Kie has become an enduring part of the Jakartan culinary scene since 1927. Despite the fact that the location of Kopi Es Tak Kie is in a narrow alley called Gang Gloria, this has not stopped its customers from continuing to come to this venerated coffee shop. For decades, the coffee’s key ingredients have remained the same: the types of coffee used are Robusta and Arabica coffee grounds, with the sweet taste obtained from sweetened, condensed milk. Today, Kopi Es Tak Kie also offers a variety of accompanying food menus that are no less delicious, such as noodles, kwetiau (rice noodles), and nasi campur (white rice mixed with various proteins such as chicken and beef).
Address: Jl. Pintu Besar Selatan III Gang Gloria No.4 6, RT.7/RW.6, Pinangsia, Taman Sari, West Jakarta.
Pondok Djaja
First opened in 1969, Pondok Djaja has consistently focused, over the decades, on catering to diners looking for the most authentic Minangkabau delights. Pondok Djaja had previously moved its shop three times over the years; its first location was in Krekot Bunder in the Pasar Baru area before relocating to Hayam Wuruk Street and, finally, Hasyim Asyari Street. The restaurant, being a family business as well, refuses to provide an online-based delivery, meaning that any diner who wishes to enjoy the restaurant’s meal must come and visit the restaurant in person. One of Pondok Djaja’s most well-known dishes is its signature nasi rames which consists of rice, rendang seasoning, savoury curry sauce, petai chilli sauce, red chilli sauce, and cucumber pickle.
Address: Jl. KH. Hasyim Ashari No.13B 6, RT.6/RW.8, Petojo Utara, Gambir, Central Jakarta.
Ragusa Es Italia
Opened by a pair of Italian brothers, Luigi and Vincenzo Ragusa, back in 1932, Ragusa Es Italia has now been passed on to their local partners but continued to follow the same classic recipes that the brothers have perfected over the decades. Heralded by the locals as one of the most celebrated and enduring dessert shops in Jakarta, Ragusa Es Italia has also been associated with the sight of long queues in front of the shop’s door during the weekends. Some of the shop’s most in-demand desserts are Chocolate Sundae, Tutti Frutti, Cassata Siciliana, Banana Split, and Spaghetti Ice Cream. Nowadays, apart from enjoying ice cream, diners can also order other foods such as otak-otak (Southeast Asian fish cake made of ground fish mixed with spices), satay, and empek-empek (Indonesian fish cake made of sweet-and-sour sauce and tapioca).
Address: Jl. Veteran I No.10, RT.4/RW.2, Gambir, Central Jakarta.
Restoran Trio
Considered by many as the oldest Cantonese restaurant in Jakarta, Restoran Trio first opened its doors to diners back in 1947 and, to this day, has been revered for offering nearly 320 dishes of Cantonese variety. Some of the restaurant’s most unique and unusual dishes are Pork Hong, Angsiu Frog, Angsiu Pauw Hie, Shark Fin, and Swallow’s Nest Soup. Fun fact about Restoran Trio: this establishment follows unusual opening hours; every day, the restaurant is open from 10 AM until 2 PM, closed from 2 PM until 5 PM, and reopens its doors from 5 PM until 9 PM. The name of the restaurant itself was derived from the fact that the restaurant was founded by three men: Lam Khay Tjioe, Tan Kim Po, and Tan Lung.
Address: Jl. RP. Soeroso No.29A, RT.2/RW.2, Gondangdia, Menteng, Central Jakarta.
Rumah Makan Surya
Often regarded as the oldest Minangkabau-oriented eatery in Jakarta, Rumah Makan Surya was founded in 1960 and has been adored by the locals for its authentic Minangkabau food. Rumah Makan Surya has also been revered due to its nostalgia appeal, especially among the people originating from West Sumatra who had transmigrated to Jakarta back in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. The selection of food is akin to home-cooked meals popular in traditional Minangkabau households, such as beef rendang, grilled chicken, pop chicken, and sambalado (precooked and chilled pepper sauce) with anchovy. A little trivia: Rumah Makan Surya enjoyed international attention when the late chef and culinary presenter, Anthony Bourdain, visited the eatery back in April 2018 — only two months before his untimely passing.
Address: Jl. Bendungan Hilir No.5, RT.10/RW.6, Bendungan Hilir, Tanah Abang, Central Jakarta.
Wong Fu Kie
Specialising in Hakka dishes, Wong Fu Kie has been around since 1925. In fact, the building of the restaurant is still maintained in its original architectural design with only a few changes for repairs in several corners of its premises. Famous for its authentic take on Chinese Hakka cuisine, the key ingredients of Wong Fu Kie’s timeless dishes are the restaurant’s mouthwatering seasonings which incorporate garlic, arak, red sticky rice tape, and sago. Some of the restaurant’s most in-demand dishes are Mun Kiaw Mien (clear-coloured sauté noodles), Lindung Cah Fumak (fried eel which is cooked with fumak vegetables and brown rice), and Kuluyuk (flour-wrapped chicken or pork cooked with sweet-and-sour red sauce and pineapple).
Address: Jl. Perniagaan Timur II No. 22, Toko Tiga, West Jakarta.