Presenting a sophisticated, seaside-inspired twist of an izakaya restaurant, the recently renovated SugarSand holds nothing back when it comes to both tropical charm and paradisiacal delights.
Looking out, both the view and the vibe are instantly recognisable as Bali. Sizeable waves crash onto the nearshore beach that lies directly ahead. Holidaymakers lounge in the pool at the front of the venue while occasional scooters thread their way unobtrusively along a narrow lane nearby.
The venue, SugarSand, is one of multiple eating and drinking venues that form part of the Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach at Double Six Beach. It is open to non-residents and has been renovated this summer, following a change in concept last year.
The core elements of the space remain largely unchanged from its previous incarnation. A large central space on the ground floor opens to the elements directly on its front, with views out towards the sea and a nearby pool but sheltered from the sky by a high ceiling. Inspired by local culture, this contains design elements nodding to the traditional Balinese jukung boat. The space has been subtly redecorated to reflect SugarSand’s latest incarnation as an izakaya-themed eatery. An upstairs space remains available for events and, indeed, some Indonesia Expat readers may recall the venue from our 2022 mixer event there.
In the main ground floor area, a bar and kitchen area stretch over the far wall, adding something of the feeling of an izakaya. SugarSand may lack the intimate, smoky atmosphere of a typical Japanese izakaya, but elements of the izakaya experience that do shine through include a welcoming, laid-back ambience, the centrality of food to socialising and friendly, and attentive service.
The kitchen team is led by Chef Rizal, who has worked across continents, including a stint at the Miami branch of Nobu. When it comes to Japanese food, SugarSand is built on a foundation of knowledge and expertise. Indeed, in the style of many excellent Japanese restaurants, it offers a comprehensive omakase meal option (for groups of six or more, ordered in advance). For less extravagant meals, though, there is a wide range of individual seafood dishes prepared in contemporary Japanese style available, including sushi, sashimi, and a selection of maki rolls. On top of that, the menu contains non-seafood Japanese options, ranging from pork ramen and chicken teriyaki to yakimeshi wagyu beef.
Having said that, while Japanese-inspired food is at the heart of the SugarSand offering, some dishes wear that influence lightly, meaning there ought to be something for everyone. The menu also contains lighter bites like shrimp popcorn and chicken wings — perfect as part of a meal or simply as a snack to go with the view of the sea.
For lunch, we started with our friendly waitress’s suggestions. The popcorn shrimp was perfectly done — just crisp enough on the outside, but moist and with great flavour. Meanwhile, the three-way tacos showcased some of the great flavour-and-texture combinations achieved by the kitchen team. That also came through in the maki rolls we had: tasty, well-portioned, and appealingly presented, to boot. On its large-sized plate, the baby chicken looked dwarfed: much of the menu follows what is essentially a small-plate approach. However, the luscious taste of the meat and marinade was superb and it was cooked to perfection, while their accompanying yoghurt dip was excellent. That dish proved the quality of the non-Japanese items on the menu.
Things were also surprisingly good when it came to desserts. SugarSand was top notch here, in terms of appealing presentation, intense flavours, and imaginative ingredient combination — whether in the coffee cream, in the white coffee gelato and sesame chips of the “cappuccino fondant”, or in the caramelised white chocolate, peach jam, and calamansi peach sorbet of the “chocolate bar”.
The location almost requires SugarSand to offer an appealing range of drinks from its bar – and it does not disappoint. Both for cocktails and non-alcoholic cocktails, it delivers Japanese twists on well-known drinks, providing an ideal way to enjoy the mood as the waves break nearby. Whether as an aperitif, meal accompaniment, or something to sip following the food, SugarSand’s imaginative and well-crafted range of drinks is ideally suited to its location and vibe.
On Friday evenings, a DJ spins tunes. However, at any time of the week, SugarSand offers a relaxing, easy-going spot to enjoy tasty bites and refreshing drinks. Just like at an izakaya, one can enjoy anything — from a small snack to a substantial and filling meal. Unlike an izakaya, though, SugarSand is set against the wide-open backdrop of the Indian Ocean.
SugarSand
- Address: Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach, Jl. Camplung Tanduk No. 10, Seminyak, Badung, Bali, Indonesia
- Tel: 0361 – 2099999
- Website: https://seminyak.hotelindigo.com/dining/#SugarSand
- Instagram: @sugarsand.bali