When Jakarta Intercultural School (JIS) student Rayden R. discovered the heavy toll popular materials such as leather had on the environment, he set out on a mission to find eco-friendly alternatives. Extensive research and a summer course at Columbia University led him to establish Symbia, a group dedicated to using Kombucha to make bioleather. In his own words, he recounts his journey of developing this groundbreaking new material while empowering local communities.
Strutting down the streets of New York, I felt on top of the world after my latest purchase: a new leather jacket paired with my jet-black (also leather!) Doc Martens. Sure, I was happy, but at the time, I wasn’t aware that millions like me would have the same experience — and share the responsibility of releasing 242 kilograms of carbon dioxide from both products combined.
The Hazards of Leather
Leather production degrades our environment through three primary means: animal exploitation, resource depletion, and unchecked environmental degradation. However, consumers face both mental and physical friction when transitioning to sustainable leather options. Most are already aware that today’s alternatives — synthetic leather, for instance — are just as harmful to the environment, not to mention that going “vegan” on leather can be financially uninviting.
Physical friction is just as significant given Indonesia’s fashion industry, where eco-conscious alternatives are not widely available and convenience often outweighs sustainability. Without this accessibility, consumers find it easier to stick with the status quo, even if they understand the environmental cost.
I approached this issue differently: if friction were the primary issue, its removal would spark exponentially increasing changes in consumer lifestyles through the sudden availability of sustainable options. If Indonesia wanted sustainability, it needed new materials, fast.
It needed Symbia™.
Bioleather Breakthrough
This past year, I founded Symbia™, an independent group focused on developing a new leather-like material grown from bacteria and fermented tea named Kombucha Bioleather™.
My first inception of the idea arrived in September 2023 after reminiscing on my summer in New York City. One of my teachers at Jakarta Intercultural School (JIS) had persuaded me to take a summer course on nanotechnology at Columbia University, which prompted me to explore the potential of natural materials replacing artificial ones. I discovered microbial bioleather developed by Theanne Schiros, a Columbia University researcher, in collaboration with biomedical engineer Helen Lu.
Leather can be created through a fermentation process using a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY), which produce cellulose nanofibers that extend into wide sheets to the naked eye. The process, inspired by ancient methods used in kombucha fermentation and vinegar production, is 10,000 times less toxic than chrome-tanned leather and has up to a 97% smaller carbon footprint compared to synthetic alternatives.
I was eager to try this myself and improve on the researchers’ drying methods. To brew my own kombucha, I used heavy amounts of sugar (for the bacteria, of course) and added SCOBY, which acts as an additional byproduct of brewing tea. I then left the mixture alone. After a month-long fermentation process, these simple materials create a jelly-like sheet that is dried out and results in a durable material akin to leather. Every step is well-supported by the weather in Indonesia, like the wide availability of odorless tea leaves and the hot mornings that accelerate the drying process. However, my growth wasn’t without its challenges.
The fermentation process was completely natural, which meant I had almost no control over it. The mixture of bacteria and yeast had to be monitored closely and covered with cloth to allow airflow while preventing contamination. Timing was another issue, as fermentation took weeks and any disturbance during this period could ruin the material. I learned the hard way that patience and precision were essential. One batch took over a month, and any premature handling would damage the delicate fibers. Each mistake helped me better understand the delicate nature of biofabrication.
The Power of Fashion
In April 2024, I launched my first batch of products, including a wallet, pouch, and document holder, all made from my Kombucha Bioleather™. My early success was great, but I never intended to keep it to myself: How can one of the world’s largest agricultural economies not capitalize on this?
I decided to focus on two outlets to share my learning experiences on founding Symbia™: community empowerment programs that provide training to micro, small, and medium enterprises and recognition at national to international forums that champion sustainable innovation.
My most heartfelt experiences came from my community empowerment programs, which began unexpectedly. While searching for photographers to feature our first handmade kombucha leather products, I met Ibu Fitri, a photographer from Yogyakarta who was also proficient in craft-making. With her help, I organized a summer workshop there, where I taught over 50 local artisans the entire kombucha leather-making process.
The idea was to establish a new craft speciality in Bantul, a regency in Yogyakarta already known for traditional craftsmanship. In Indonesia, certain regions are often associated with specific artisanal traditions, and I saw the potential for kombucha leather to become Bantul’s niche.
From this first program, Ibu Fitri connected me to the village head of Cilacap, a small village five hours away from Yogyakarta. There, we conducted a more formal training session, providing fabric and live demonstrations for over 200 students and craftspeople. Eager to branch into fashion and interior design, I soon received an invitation from Semarang, where local artisans reached out for a similar training session. This time, the workshop took place over the Independence Day weekend, further cementing our mission to empower craftspeople across multiple regions.
The success of these workshops led to an invitation from the Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy to teach more extensively. Today, I stay in touch with many of the artisans through a WhatsApp group, where they regularly share updates on their progress and new products they’ve created with Kombucha Bioleather™, showcasing how they’ve turned this knowledge into a sustainable income.
International Exposure
Parallel to these community efforts, I sought international recognition for Symbia™ through various forums. Documenting our work on Instagram was strategic as it allowed me to apply for the World Water Forum, where we were selected to host two side events. The first event took place at a fun run in Jimbaran, Bali, just before the official forum opening. We set up an educational booth to engage participants and showcase our leather products, successfully drawing attention from the thousands of attendees.
Our second event was held at Melasti Beach, where even more participants, including visitors from countries like Japan and Pakistan, stopped by our booth to learn about sustainable materials. Tens of thousands of participants expressed their eagerness to learn about eco-friendly alternatives to conventional leather.
The international exposure didn’t stop there. After the World Water Forum, we received invitations to other prominent events, including ASEAN Youth for Environmental Action, held at Universitas Budi Luhur. Demand for our products grew rapidly. As a result, we switched to a made-to-order business model to keep up with the influx of orders, particularly from participants at these events.
One of our most exciting moments was when we gifted a batik-lined kombucha leather jacket to Sandiaga Uno, Indonesia’s then-Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy. The recognition from both national and international platforms has been a major stepping stone for Symbia™, allowing us to innovate while new audiences worldwide watched us.
Lessons Learned
Inventing a new material taught me three key lessons. First, chase what you want. Over time, perseverance overcomes most obstacles because it gives you the space to properly consider your work and develop your intuition. This reframed my perception of making mistakes, especially after struggling with the fermentation process. Mistakes are natural. Going after what you want is not just about having a dream but about relentlessly pursuing it, regardless of what’s ahead.
Second, everyone should engage in service within their lifetime. JIS regularly repeats the mantra of being Best for the World, but reaching such a lofty goal starts by being the best for your country, then your city, then your community. Change doesn’t have to be on a grand scale — it begins with small, meaningful actions.
In my case, I learned the value of reaching out and offering help to others, especially without expecting to reap any benefits in return. All students must view their knowledge as a privilege and use it well. While there is always more to learn, I realized that my growing knowledge of sustainable materials could also be valuable to others. Someone, somewhere, could benefit from what I had to share, and that realization pushed me to put my skills to good use.
Third, take inspiration from everything around you. The moment you stop embracing new ideas and experiences is the moment you stop growing. Even outside the classroom, many of my experiences at JIS, particularly my work within the service network, gave me the courage to be a contrarian. This opportunity to step outside my comfort zone allowed me to continuously take inspiration — most notably through my photographs of products I found remotely cool to recreate — and continues to push me forward.
My Kombucha Bioleather™ may only be available in Indonesia, but I will commit myself to innovating the product until it reaches the millions of consumers who are searching for a sustainable alternative to leather.
This Article is written by Jakarta Intercultural School student, Rayden Y.