Adventurous yet humble, with a lively sense of humour and boundless energy, Filomena Reiss—affectionately known as Filo—has carved out her own path through Indonesia’s lesser-known corners. Her deep connection to the country continues to shape her journey.
When Filo arrived in Jakarta in 1996 with her husband, she didn’t expect Indonesia to become a lifelong passion. At the time, she was looking for a meaningful way to engage with her surroundings.
That search led her to the Indonesian Heritage Society, a community that quietly shaped the course of her life. What began as a way to learn through various community activities soon became something more immersive. Study tours introduced her to remote regions and lesser-known cultures.
Indonesia’s vastness sparked her curiosity to explore beyond the obvious.
Drawn to the Unseen
Unlike many travellers, Filo sought out places that required effort to reach.
“These places are fascinating,” she says. “You don’t just visit—you experience.”
Her understanding deepened as she learned how to approach different communities.
“I improved the way I communicate with villagers, and learned to respect their way of life,” she continues.
Rather than rushing through destinations and immediately taking photos, she learned to slow down and listen to the people.
“And when I return for the second, third, or even fourth time, they treat me like family. When you hear women inviting you with ‘Mampir dulu,’ I feel the warm welcome immediately,” she says.
During planting and harvesting seasons in the Baduy land, she was awed to witness firsthand the spirit of gotong royong (community cooperation).
“The community helping each other without expecting anything in return. It’s a tradition to be admired,” she adds.
Learning Through Tradition
Filo’s curiosity deepened and her fascination grew, leaving her wanting to know more, expanding from food to culture to tradition. Markets became a window into daily life, unfolding as she observed local produce and traditional outfits. In villages, craftsmanship offered another layer of insight. Traditional crafts, from batik-making to weaving to beadwork—each carried meaning.
“Their level of skill is incredible,” she says. “These are not just objects—they’re part of people’s identity.”
Her appreciation took the form of preservation. She began collecting handmade crafts not as souvenirs, but as records of living traditions. Ceremonies witnessed gradually became experiences in which she was welcomed to participate, making her feel like she was part of a family.
The Reality of the Unseen Path
Reaching these places was rarely straightforward. Travel often meant unreliable transport, difficult terrain, and limited access to basic necessities.
“You just adapt. That’s part of travelling off the beaten path; the payoff is positively enormous,” Filo says.
In more isolated regions, even basic necessities can be uncertain.
“Finding a good place to eat, a place to sleep, and clean drinking water is not always available,” she explains, adding that nature often has the final say.
Those regions remain overlooked for practical reasons: limited infrastructure, limited time, and a general preference for ease. Indonesia is so vast that it takes time to reach lesser-known paths, so tourists opt for easier travel to destinations like Bali.
Places That Leave a Mark
Some places have left a lasting impression on Filo, to which she returns time and again. One journey that has stayed with her was her first visit to the Baduy community in 1997. What struck her the most was not what was present, but what was absent.
“I was amazed at how simply they live,” she says. “It’s very humbling.”
The experience motivated her to give back to the community by writing a book titled Urang Kenekes. She later co-authored another book documenting Baduy textiles with photographer Don Hasman.
In Wae Rebo, Flores, she recalls, “After walking six kilometres uphill, you arrive at a place that feels like a hidden paradise.” On Savu Island, the landscapes of Kelabba Madja and the cave of Mabala feel “like journeying to the centre of the earth.”
In the Banda Islands, famously known as the Spice Islands, history lingered in quieter ways. It is a place she calls paradise despite its dark history.
“These tiny islands once shaped the world through the spice trade,” she says. “It’s incredible to see it in real life.”
Travelling with Purpose: Giving Back to Communities
For Filo, travelling to remote destinations is not just about discovery; it is also about creating meaningful impact for the communities she visits.
“Bringing tourists to these places helps the local economy,” she explains.
Through her research on Baduy textiles, she has helped revive forgotten motifs and natural dyes. During a stay in a village in Flores in 2012, Filo noticed the lack of proper sanitation facilities.
“It’s a tourist destination, but there were no proper toilets,” she recalls.
Determined to help, she arranged for a local sanggar performance, documenting it in an article published in The Jakarta Post. She then used the royalties to fund the construction of toilets.
In West Timor, the impact was more personal, shaped through relationships built over time. To fund a well in Savu Island, she took part in a “Walk for a Cause” in 2016, walking a challenging 1,000 kilometres.
“It’s not just about visiting,” she says. “It’s about giving back.”
A Lifelong Connection
Now in her 70s, Filo continues to travel with the same curiosity that first brought her to Indonesia.
“I still have many places I want to see,” she says. “Seventy is only a number.”
Though she has physically moved, Filo’s connection to Indonesia remains strong, and keeps her returning and continuing to accompany tourists and expats to the archipelago’s unseen paths.
“My heart is still here,” she says. “Even after all these years, there’s still so much to discover.”
Her connection is shaped not by how far she has travelled, but by the relationships she continues to return to—while her humility and generosity inspire others to explore alongside her. Her message is simple: “If you want a truly unique experience, go beyond the usual destinations and visit the hidden gems of Indonesia.”
Filo’s journey is a reminder that the most meaningful experiences often lie just beyond the familiar.